FAQ

The Appalachian Rose Nursery
FAQ - INFO PAGE

We will, as time allows, add to this section of the website to provide as much information as possible. As such feel free to discuss any of your questions with us. We'll either help or try to direct you to a source that can. Questions of rose culture and varieties, generally, are more effectively answered by other rosarians in the local growing area.

Why do you grow "own-root" roses?
When and where do you ship roses ?
Do you have any planting recommendations ?
Do you accept Credit Cards ?
Rose Virus: What is a Rose Virus and does it really cause problems?
Bands vs. Standard Containers

Why do you grow "Own-Root" roses?

I believe there are several advantages to own root plants, with few exceptions. The biggest reason own-root roses have not, and still are not the prominent method of reproducing roses is purely one of economics. More plants can be reproduced from each foot of budwood budding them onto rootstock than is possible rooting cuttings. It is possible to reproduce by cuttings using as little as one bud but, not all varieties will reproduce in this manner and the facility requirements are more stringent. Some, perhaps a large number of varieties are hard and in some cases almost impossible to reproduce via cutting so it is and will always be a place for grafted/budded plants. As well the use of rootstock allows adjustment for soil type variations and pests in various areas where this would be beneficial. There is use of some rootstocks for specialty exhibition purposes that are popular. Some varieties, while they grow on their own roots, just plainly will do better on a root stock. For the most part this applies best to Hybrid Teas and other varieties where the overriding quality sought after was not the fitness and vigor of the plant itself but rather addressing bloom qualities. Every rose is a blend of qualities some strong, some weak, some desired and some perhaps less than desired. This is the manner of own-root versus grafted plants. Own rooted plants will as rule be more resistant to winter kill. There is no crown graft to kill therefore only the same variety to grow back from the roots if all the top growth dies back. The crown of most grafted plants as well is a source or rather weak area prone to mechanical damage and disease/insect damage. A grafted plant will not have the same recovery abilities from this as a own-rooted plant. Own root roses are generally better at producing canes during their lifetime.

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When and where do you ship roses?

We during the plants active growing season here. We do not ship during the hottest periods of the year here or to an area that is extremely hot. The losses are likely to be unacceptable to both parties. We have not shipped dormant plants as yet but may consider shipping bareroot during this time period to areas that would be actively growing. We would like to ship to all fifty states but due to the state of Tennessees' inability or unwillingness to help us in any real manner, ship to the west coast states, we will be very hesitant to accept any further orders from any states with class 1 restrictions on the importing of plants materials. In explanation - we are VERY careful in the manner in which we grow roses at the nursery here to make sure we do not ship diseased or bug infected stock and treat all shipments regardless as required for imported fire ant and Japanese Beetle quarantines. Rather than working with all parties concerned Tennessee Plant Inspection has seized this as an opportunity to make easy money and wants us to pay a $25 per order Phytosanitary certification fee. Other nurseries in the trade, North Carolina, South Carolina, as well as Texas do not have this hindrance we are not able to compete fairly and have chosen not to ask our customers to bare the price. We are indeed sorry to deny past customers or potential customers in this position but at this time I don't see any alternatives.

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Do you have any planting recommendations?

Almost all roses require at least 6 hours of FULL sun per day. Do not plant too close to a house or under a tree to where this is not possible. There are many varieties that require less but the bottom line is "Roses love the Sun"! Roses will grow somewhat in lesser light but the vigor will be reduced. Smaller canes and less blooming would be the norm. If your climate is particularly hot, zone 6b and hotter, roses actually seem to like a shady time of day, so long as it’s only a few hours!

Roses require 1 - 2 inches each and every week, less but, even during the winter!

Don’t prune you new roses the first year any more than absolutely necessary. Only prune dead canes, or light pruning after bloom. I prefer to "thumb prune" after bloom and that seems to work better for most roses that require it (deadheading). The only drawback to doing this is the blooms will be slightly smaller. They will however return to bloom faster. Chinas and most Polyanthas don’t require any pruning after bloom and will actually not do as well if you do!

Roses grow quite well in containers BUT, the water requirements are much more critical as they will dry quicker. The bigger the container, the better off you'll be. Fifteen to 25 gallons is about right for most full sized plants. Regular fertilization is required as there is less soil.

Roses generally don’t like competition. Trees will steal nutrients as will grass and almost any other plant growing too close to a rose. However, most smaller annuals may be used to effect and as well moderate amounts of daylilies or Clematis seem to do well.

We do not recommend planting your roses the first day you receive them! Generally they will do better if allow to acclimate back to full light by spending that first day in an area that provides bright but, indirect light. If the soil seems dry on arrival they may be watered but this is not likely to be the case. In any case do not water more that about a quart/liter of plain water per bush. If you’re not able to plant them shortly thereafter (2^nd day) it’s recommended you water them carefully to insure against wilting and excessive heat. Generally watering is required every other day during the growing season and once every week or so during shorter daylight months. Careful observation is the best guide!

Yes, own root roses are smaller than the "normal" 2 year old field grown/grafted roses you may be used to purchasing. These are not deficient or sub quality plants. While they Might be younger in age (most of ours are second year) roses are limited like most plants to the root size their container will allow.

Most roses will "sit" for a while after planting or seem not to grow but most like they’re putting out new roots and should within the first growing season put out new growth/canes from the base. Some varieties of roses will take 2 - 3 years to grow to full potential. I think after trying a few "own root" roses and getting used to the growth cycle they require, most people will see a better rose bush in the end, at maturity.

Preparation:

Most importantly is to know the PH of your native soil. Roses tend to like neutral to slightly acid soil. 6.5 - 7+ This is not "critical" but, will make for healthier better growing plants. Soils may be made more acidic with Ferrous Sulfate and more alkaline with lime or gypsum. If you don’t know your soil PH best is to have it tested, but, if this is not possible modify your soils as below according to type and most likely it will test okay.

For each rose dig a hole at minimum 2 feet in diameter and at least 1 ft deep. The deeper the better, two feet deep is not out of line. The hole is prepared this big to allow for the average root ball size of a mature rose plant. Smaller holes tend to make for small runty root systems. Roots will not "force" their way into heavy clay or hard compacted soil. If planting more than one plant together some times it is easier to dig more of a trench than "holes" for the plants.

Soil:

For Clay type soils it’s recommended you fill the hole with a mix of 1/3 peat, 1/3 composted-rotted material, and 1/3 of the native soil. The soil may be inter sprinkled with gypsum. The same mix is used to amend sandy type loams with the exception, do not use the gypsum.

Planting:

Initially fill the bottom of the hole with several inches of well rotted manure if available. This will support the plant growth for most of the first year. If not available, bone or blood meals make fine additions at planting time as well. Time release fertilizers in the bottom of the hole at this time do no harm either, just use them in moderation. Use no powered or liquid immediate action type fertilizers at planting time. The first month after planting can be somewhat stressful for the plant and too much available fertilizer may add to this stress and burn/kill the plant. After the first month do start, if the plant is actively growing, a regular monthly or bi-weekly feeding program, depending of course on your climate! (Granular, immediate release type fertilizers are not recommended until the second year)

Remove the plant from the container by holding your hand at the base of the plant (soil level) while turning the whole plant and container upside down, lifting the container off with your other hand. Never "pull" the plant upward from the pot using the stem like a "handle" as root and stem damage is likely to occur in this case! The rose should set in the hole at a level with the soil slightly higher than the surrounding soil. This will allow for some settling of the soil. A good technique in filling the hole is fill around the plant about halfway up, tamp to eliminate pockets and water lightly. Continue to fill the hole until it tamps down to slightly above grade and water lightly once more. Do not "drown" the plant, this is only to insure air pockets are eliminated and to wet the soil if it is dry. Most important is the final addition of 4 - 6 inches of mulch over the top soil around the rose. Mulch helps prevent harsh drying cycles and helps cool the soil in addition to helping keep down weeds. Most mulch types are personal choice and are fine, but, only well cured pine materials or inorganic materials are recommended. Hardwood mulched will cause problems around roses and are strongly advised against.

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Do you Accept Credit Cards?

My regrets but, the answer is no. At least for now the costs associated with credit cards is more than we're able to lose from our sales. I realize this is an inconvenient for some but we try to compensate for this we will hold any phone order or email order for a reasonable period 1-2 weeks until payment arrives.

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What is a Rose virus and does it really cause problems?

Virus in roses has been (at least in the thirty+ years I've been personally growing roses) the dirty little secret that was not talked about - most definitely not presented to the end-consumer! It only in the last ten years or so become a topic of interest generally. Most consumers are still not aware and most commercial growers are good at lip service and would just as soon the subject would go away. I've seen several companies tactics addressing this issue, anything from "We only use virus free root-stock" to the really hilarious "there are no rose virus problems in European gardens". Neither are an adequate assurance the rose you will get is virus free. The afore mentioned quotes only being used as example, my point is only to state there is continued misinformation in this area. That said....
   "Rose Virus" is actually several differing viruses any one of which can cause a variety of symptoms in roses from "nothing apparent" to an inclination to die an early death, despite the best efforts of the rosarian. The perhaps most common of the known viruses in roses are Ring Necrotic and Mosaic. I've listed two great links on the subject on my links page, Malcolm Manners work and the site at the University of California at Davis. These two operations have done more work for the treatment and preservation of roses than anyone else I'm aware of. You'll find plenty of pictures and information available for your education.
   Virus in roses even if not apparent will reduce the vigor, number of blooms and reduce the plants ability to fight off other infectious agents. Winter kill and reduced basal sprouts are two less obvious symptoms or side effects of and underlying virus.
    After being enlightened as to the effects viruses have in the health and vigor I sought out and started growing "clean" roses as much as is possible. I've tested a great number of varieties (Elisa testing) and am committed to obtaining stock that is either grown from seed, is of heat treated - virus indexed history, or is a plant of known lineage, clean and never grafted. The difference in a lot of cases has been astounding, in other cases I've found a bad rose is still a bad rose, there are many varieties that while perhaps pretty, should never have been marketed. Also, in the last year I have found definitively ELISA testing is not the catch all. Our Flaming Peace which is both from a Canadian source claiming virus freedom, as well as ELISA tested started showing signs of ring mosaic during this summers heat. While it's still a good rose it is not virus free. Goes far in showing the latency factor of many of the virus.

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Bands vs. Standard Containers

We have for the last several years tried growing our roses in some of the larger "tree pot" bands. These are a little deeper than the bands most nurseries use and those you might have been familiar with. Our intention and hope was that, due to the smaller overall soil capacity of these pots we would be able to save shipping costs. The end result proved this to be true, shipping is roughly half of the cost of shipping gallon containers. There has been a negative tradeoff however in our experience. The plants, while just as healthy, early on, do not grow off as well and are overly sensitive to watering needs. The difference in grow-off ability does vary according to variety running the full spectrum from no noticeable difference to a general refusal to grow in some varieties. It would be our opinion that the varieties that like a shallower more spreading root system suffer more stunting growing in bands than others. Because of this problem we will be returning to growing in 1 gallon pots only. Bands will after our present stock runs out, be available only special order.